Cushnie et Ochs: Darkness and Resurrection - NBC New York

Fall 2014

Cushnie et Ochs: Darkness and Resurrection



    For Spring 2011, designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs explored their more morbid inclinations in a collection that centered around  darkness and resurrection. Though not blatantly apparent--probably because we were so distracted looking at the jagged, three-inch spikes jutting forth from the Alejandro Ingelmo stilettos--the theme slowly asserted itself in the gradual disintegration of the clothes themselves.

    Opening with more tailored looks in camel and black leather (a summery short-suit is the perfect evolution of this season's "power suiting" trend), the garments began to take on a moth-eaten effect, as in the soft ivory blouses and dresses covered in chewed holes. But even the decay was meant to look beautiful, with thick clusters of sequins and beading perking up even the most nibbled pieces. By the end, the clothes were practically dripping off the models backs with a closing series of spectral white cocktail dresses.

    The styling and presentation details (there was a fog machine blasting full force) only added to the uncanniness: uneven foil manicures were designed to look like the models had been digging through gold, and white rimmed eyes gave the girls an eerie, wraith-like appearance. The collection may have been about everything coming undone, but things are definitely coming together for this exciting young brand.