Manhattan, Meet Defonte's.

Hey, island people: You no longer have to soldier out to the edge of Red Hook for an Italian hero that'd make a Sicilian widow weep.

Why, Daily Candy! With your spa treatments and your infused vodkas, we figured you for a mozz-and-gabagool kind of gal. Color us impressed.

But that's the thing with Defonte's, a joint on the Carroll Gardens/Red Hook border that's been serving Italian basics since 1922. You try them once, and you're hooked for life. Today marks the opening of the shop's second location - in Manhattan, no less! - which means more addicts.

Silky homemade mozzarella. Eggplant parm that you never knew could be so light and flavorful. And the sandwiches! Get a Nicky Special. You'll fill your six-month quota of cured meats in a single bite. And yeah, the veggies in there are home-pickled. Yes, it's a $10 sandwich, but it's the size of a Jack Russell. You won't have to eat for a week.

Defonte's of Brooklyn, 261 Third Avenue at 21st Street; (212) 614-1500;

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