Phillip Lim Plays with Shadows and Illusions for Fall

The designer created shadowy, trompe l'oeil looks for his latest collection, which was a slick departure from some of his more relaxed collections.

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For his fall collection, Phillip Lim created shadowy, trompe l'oeil looks that felt like a slick, forward-thinking departure from some of his more relaxed looks.
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The collection played on dark and light themes -- most obviously with its copious use of black and white -- as well as double-take-inducing silhouettes.
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Much as Lim's spring show had a rather elevated theme -- the relationship of clothing to air with a line based around kites -- this collection was high concept in its attempts to investigate the relationship between objects and shadows.
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Lim had already been immersed in neo-noir comics while creating his Pre-Fall collection, and Fall sprung from similar sources.
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"You create the shadow, and then you saw the subject," Lim explained backstage. "We took it from there and we actually brought her to life -- this superheroine -- and we set her in the city of Manhattan."
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Playfully-constructed tromp l'oeil details were rampant on the runway, like this jacket, worn with the sleeves dangling away from the arms.
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"I created chiffon pants over shorts or trousers," says Lim. "I wanted to fake shadow with that. When they were walking … it created another form inside."
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Even more alluring from a sartorial perspective were the casually-draped layers of knitwear that seemed piled haphazardly onto the models.
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In some cases, one sleeve would be worn, while the other would dangle behind the model's back. "I love the whole idea of how women dress in the streets -- in transit," Lim told us. "You can't always have time to put everything together ... It's in motion. The everyday superheroine, she's always in motion, right?"
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Noir influences are evident in this '30s-inspired suit, complete with over-the-knee pencil skirt and slightly peplum waist.
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Hints of an updated houndstooth are visible on a pair of midnight blue and black pants. The metallic collars that were littered throughout the collection are sure to become It-accessories come September.
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Rare pops of color appeared in lush jewel tones, like this emerald coat and rich blue pant.
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A layer of fur on a white suit gives the illusion of a short-sleeved garment worn on top of the ensemble.
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