Oscar de la Renta Kicks Off Pre-Fall Season With Luxe Basics and Showstopping Gowns

Oscar de la Renta took a restrained turn with his Pre-Fall 2012 collection, showing pieces like perfectly-cut shift dresses, wide-leg trousers and simple bias-cut gowns.

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Runway looks from Oscar de la Renta's Pre-Fall 2012 collection.
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Oscar de la Renta took a restrained turn with his Pre-Fall 2012 collection, showing pieces like perfectly cut shift dresses, wide-leg trousers and simple bias cut gowns. Of course, "restrained" for De La Renta also means plenty of hand beading and embroidery.
Pre-Fall has morphed into a major season in the last few years, with some designers hosting full-on runway shows. While De La Renta has been holding his runway shows in a space in his showroom for the last several seasons, he opted to show Pre-Fall in a grand Park Avenue space that was once a church.
The show included 58 looks -- ranging from daywear to evening looks -- that were sent down the runway accompanied by an instrumental version of Coldplay's "Paradise."
Brian Buenaventura of Orlo salon created a simple loop of hair tied with a ribbon for the show. "We wanted something clean and chic," he said.
English makeup guru Alice Lane created the makeup for the show, which was clean and simple, emphasizing a strong brow and subtle stained lip.
Perfectly-cut sheath dresses, like this one, are the kind of clothes that retailers love, and women actually buy. That might explain the large teams from Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus in the audience.
Other wearable pieces included trousers rendered in camel, marigold and sky blue.
There were also plenty of skirt suits, with boxy jackets int the collection -- a trademark of De La Renta.
De La Renta made the biggest statements with his accessories -- 1970s-inspired oxford mules, box clutches and lace cloche hats.
Most of the looks were also paired sheer polka dot stockings.
Fitting for a Pre-Fall collection, the show played with textures like nubby wool, tweed, lace, fox fur, and double-faced leather.
The designer also experimented with patterns like polka dots, Rothko-inspired prints and watercolor florals.
The crinkled and pleated silk dresses were some of the collection's stand-outs, including this cocktail dress.
Eveningwear had an ease this season, like this dramatic pink gown that was one of the finale looks.
Other gowns that closed the show included variations on 1930s-influenced bias-cut gowns.
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