Antonio Azzuolo Focuses on Fabrication, Silhouette for Spring

The menswear darling of the CFDA -- he's a Vogue/Fashion Fund finalist and part of the 2012 Fashion Incubator -- simplified his vision for Spring 2012.

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Kelly O'Reilly / The Thread
The menswear darling of the CFDA -- a Vogue/Fashion Fund finalist and part of the 2012 Fashion Incubator -- had a simple vision for spring. "Every season I have an archetype of an individual that I reference," says Azzuolo. "This season, I think I'm much more literal in my inspiration. I really felt like experimenting with fabrication, proportion and cut."
Kelly O'Reilly / The Thread
Anna Wintour breezed through amidst a barely concealed hubbub of camera-toting onlookers. "After we put it all together, there's an image coming through ... very '60s and the Rat Pack. But, you know, it comes through as an undercurrent."
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Azzuolo's holistic approach to building a complete wardrobe can be reflected in the variety of looks throughout the spring collection. "I play with contrast and duality," he said, pointing out a striped sweater next to a tuxedo. "It's dressing up, but it's still very chic. Casual chic."
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"It's all about detailing for menswear," explains Azzuolo. "The tiniest little measurement or proportion makes the biggest difference." Trousers, for example, ranged from loose, with generous breaks, to three-quarter shorts and ankle crops. "[These] things are not revolutionary, but they're very distinctive."
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Azzuolo had color on his mind -- an idea headlined by a jacket the designer described as "my summer version of your winter Linton tweeds."
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Spring's casual bent, Azzuolo tells us, marks a "foreshadowing for next season, when I want to start doing denim and T-shirts."
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"Menswear is more about style and dressing, and not so much about trends," says Azzuolo. "Whatever it is that has been important in the past is more important today. The jackets are sharper, the shoulder is sharper, but there's still a classic reference with my work."
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A new standout for this season is the asymmetric silhouette that Azzuolo pointed out on both trousers and shorts. "Those are references we see in New York. I mean, I ride my bike all over the place, so these things influence my work."
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