Mariani Unleashed: In the latest email newsletter of…

In the latest email newsletter of Esquire's restaurant columnist, John Mariani, the critic sums up his lessons from writing the mag's "20 Best New Restaurants of 2008" (after admitting he just couldn't get into Momo' Ko): "Number of Restaurants Visited: 115...Number of Really Rotten Meals: 10...Number of new Restaurants with Ear-Shattering Decibel Levels: 55...Number of Hottie Hostesses I Want my Sons to Meet: 12." Charming. [Virtual Gourmet]For more stories from Eater, go to

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