Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews Socarrat Paella Bar, the West 19th street tapas bar quietly attracting waits. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:
Zero Stars: 6-1
One Star: 2-1 √√
Two Stars: 4-1
Three Stars: 15-1
Four Stars: 25,000-1
We've got critically heralded paella here, mixed-to-good reviews of the rest, BYO booze service, 20-to-30-minute waits, and a communal table. And we got some white napkins on said communal table. Low end, we're talking about a one star review. The Bruni isn't as sure a thing as taxes, but he's not a monster either. A goose egg of any kind for a sweet little BYO paella joint minding it's own business isn't his game (even if the prices here are a tad uppity). On the other hand, if you're thinking two stars, you might be thinking a tad optimistic, on account of unevenness and sub-genius cooking. The communal table, stripped down shindig works for Chang, but that's David Chang and this ain't that (not at uppity prices). In this economy, Eater is taking the safe bet: one star.
· Socorrat Paella Bar [NYT; after 8:00 PM]
√√ denotes the Eater bet.For more stories from Eater, go to eater.com.