BruniBetting: Bobo

Kalina, 9/21/07

Tomorrow, Frank Bruni reviews Bobo, the West Village show dog that has cycled through three chefs in a year. Today, the Eater oddsmakers have set the action as follows:

Zero Stars: 4-1
One Star: 3-1 √√
Two Stars: 10-1
Three Stars: 25-1
Four Stars: 25,000-1

Bobo, now with kitchen run by Beard Award winner Patrick Connolly (award won at Boston restaurant, Radius), is a riveting case for the Bruni. As mentioned above, the restaurant has had three executive chefs in a year, which is a shit-ton of chefs for twelve months in the life of a pricey West Village restaurant. But the place is as handsome as any restaurant that has opened in this time period. Combined with its 10th Street and Seventh Avenue address, its looks have had it packed from debut. And if all this doesn't make it good enough for Story Time with Uncle Frankie Boom Boom, these chefs three have fluctuated, sometimes on one night, between awful and excellent. It's gorgeous, it's frustrating, it's intermittently intoxicating; it's very similar to that other cagey bitch, golf. But, we digress. Bobo is good enough, enough of the time to avoid the goose egg. It's too erratic for anything more (although Connolly cook; that might not be the case in a few more months time). Book it: One star for Bobo.
· Bobo [NYT; after 8:00 PM]

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