Notable Newbie: Bánh Mì at An Choi

Yet another new Vietnamese joint lands, angling for the bánh mì crown

Let's get this out of the way right now: There are some people who think bánh mì that costs more than $4 and/or is served in a place with halogen spots and/or Sazeracs is poseur bánh mì, and should crawl back to the fancy kitchen from whence it came. And that's fine. We like the one from Pho Saigon too, and that place we can never remember the name of in Sunset Park, but we're not sticklers for authenticity. Is your bánh mì delicious on its own terms? Then we want to eat it.

We like Sidecar's version, enormous, on the crustiest of breads, and served with a side of jalapenos (if you want it spicy) and cucumber juice for dipping. We're also happy that Hanco's has extended its reach further into Brooklyn with the recent opening of its 7th Avenue shop. And now we're excited to hear, in the Feed, about An Choi, which is designed to give you the full order-from-a-food-cart-eat-in-an-alley Saigon experience. (Grub Street has a slideshow -- check it out.) The bánh mì is served both with traditional toppings (roasted pork, daikon radish pickles) and with some that are less so (aioli). From what we hear, it's delicious on its own terms. So we want to eat it. 85 Orchard Street, 212-226-3700

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