Odyn Vovk: Leather, Brooding, and “The Lone Wolf”

Even if you happen to be a little tired of the whole leather layering and drawstring sweatpants thing, it's no reason to skip an Odyn Vovk show. Historically loud, punk "rawk" affairs complete with deliciously brooding, heavily-tattooed models, this gothy streetwear brand is always among our favorite presentations of the season.

This time, guests were invited into a red-doored convention space on a particularly bad smelling block on the Lower East Side, and treated to an installation-style presentation of greasy, bleary-eyed models posed among seemingly random objects (mostly, for some reason, chairs suspended from the ceilling).

Inspired by the concept of "the lone wolf," designer Austin Sherbably churned out a slightly toned down but no less street-ready collection of cropped acid-wash jeans, thin airy knits and, memorably, a leather jacket with shoulder blade cut-outs, all of which his models sported with frowny faces and downcast looks. Towards the front of the display, an older model with an admirable moustache and a slicked-back gray ponytail quietly folded his hands in prayer over an exposed chest tattoo of (we think) a Catholic cross, evidently uncomfortable with the swarming photographers. In spite of his discomfort, we felt the collection represented a newfound easiness and maturation for the brand, which could be good for a label that is so often relegated to the "young and restless" fashion periphery.

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