We’re not going to say chicken is the new pork, but fried birds have popped up on the menus at Butcher Bay, Gus & Gabriel, Mermaid Inn, 5 Ninth, Momofuku Noodle Bar, Fatty Crab (as a special), and soon at Locanda Verde.
And now, from August 25 to September 5, you can get them at Savoy during lunch. Of course, Peter Hoffman wouldn’t batter and fry just any chicken — in fact, his chef, Ryan Tate, has come up with an à la carte “chicken revolution” menu based on limited-production Heritage-breed chickens from poultry farmer Frank Reese (Hoffman calls them “the best eating chickens I have ever had”). Your lunch option is a fried chicken with rooftop-honey biscuits and summer slaw, and here’s what will be available during dinner:
Heritage Breed Chicken-Liver Mousse
roasted peach and wild arugula salad with semolina raisin toast
Cold Poached Jersey Giant Chicken Breast
braised artichokes, buttermilk emulsion, chamomile honey
Roasted New Hampshire Chicken (Feeds two to three people)
pan jus and herbes de Provence
Plus, roasted summer squash, eggplant and sweet peppers
Carafe of 2008 Pannonhalmi Apatsagi Rosé
They don’t come cheap, but you can also cook these birds (more flavorful, and less engorged than factory-farm chickens) at home, “like your Grandmother and Great Grandmother used to cook,” by ordering them from Reese Turkeys.