Tom Colicchio's coffee and sandwich mini-chain 'witchcraft is trying to pull the naughty librarian trick: you know, she looks boring on the outside, but inside beats the heart of a temptress. Or something like that. The counter-service spot will switch it up come dinnertime at its Flatiron District location (20th St. and Broadway) starting tonight, break out the candles and the wine list, and viola, it's a whole other person...er restaurant.
Cosi used to try this trick, but if you've ever sat with a cocktail at the same place somebody in a paper hat handed you a salad in a plastic tub and dressing in a foil pack just a few hours earlier knows how that works. It's sort of like eating in an airplane terminal.
To avoid the fast food residue, 'wichcraft is amping up the ambiance, adding a host, table service and china. The menu of affordable smallish plates is right for recessionary times, but—not to take anything away from the food–the description "inspired by sandwiches" defies logic. Still, there's something to be said for a restaurant that goes both ways.
Menu and such at Grub Street.