Catherine Blair Pfander/The Thread
Season after season, designers Flora Gill and Alexa Adams of Ohne Titel can be depended upon to serve up sporty, futuristic style without verging into literal athletic references, and they didn't waver from that specific aesthetic this season.
Inspired by early Apollo mission spacesuits, the girls played with proportion and texture to tantalizing effect, moving away somewhat from the ultra body-con dresses and jumpsuits of spring and towards a more strong-shouldered, architectural silhouette.
Opening with a series of murky gray knits spackled with dyed shearling swatches, the collection exploded into rich red suiting and cobalt blue separates before mellowing into jet black evening looks -- a familliar palette for Ohne, though somewhat moodier and more subdued this season. As always, it's less the concept than the details of Ohne's garments that get editorial tongues wagging: Synethic white "hair" woven like fringe throughout a structured cocktail dress, or a diagonal swipe of metallic silver on a tiered leather mini-skirt.
It's remarkable how the dynamic duo is able to adapt their inspiration sources to the arty, Space Age aesthetic they've developed for themselves -- and not the other way around. Such a strong, unwavering point of view is unusual for designers their age, but then again, their inexperience is precisely what makes their success so thrilling.