Anna Sui fall/winter 2010.
Another New York Fashion Week concludes, leaving clothing-hungry ladies (and a few men) with reinterpretations of current looks, a fresh batch of trends, and oh-so many pieces to covet for fall 2010.
With a change of seasons, comes metamorphosis. 3.1 Phillip Lim's woman has matured, dealing less in girlish florals and more in strong shapes and sharp details. Thakoon also took a different approach, substituting his usual feminine frocks for looks that were sensual in an untamed, call-of-the-jungle kind of way, with styling that occasionally pushed things to a punk rock edge.
New York's leading roster of young talent -- Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang being the most notable examples -- took cues from the cult late-'80s, early-'90s schoolgirl set. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez offered up its take for Proenza with a buttoned-up, moody, and graphic vibe, complete with thigh-high stockings, while Wang paired skinny footless thigh highs with sharply tailored, midriff baring vests.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, big name designers such as Vera Wang and Donna Karan (who celebrated her label's 25th anniversary this year) channeled ballerinas (albeit with asymmetric edge) showing leotard-like bodices, irresistible princess skirts, and slicked back buns.
Altuzarra echoed the slim-fitting, long sleeve silhouette on top, but slashed and tied it for a corset effect. Other designers celebrated the corset too, including Gwen Stefani at L.A.M.B., who did them with cammo and Marc by Marc Jacobs who did sent a schoolgirl plaid corset dress down the catwalk, while Rag & Bone went crazy with the grungy plaids in schoolgirl ensembles.
Other prints and patterns took to the runway too, from African inspired ikats at Suno to psychedelic blurs at DVF to loop-de-loops at Custo Barcelona. Custo was crazy for richly saturated color, as was Peter Som, both of whom did peacock blues, purples, and greens with plenty of shine. Rising star Chris Benz opted for sparkling scarlet and oranges.
Rodarte was as inventive as ever, piecing together a stellar, if slightly tattered, collection of pieces fashioned from scraps of florals, lace and crochet. Alexandre Herchovitch also exuded a crafty vibe.
Michael Kors stayed strong with luxe fabrications (fur was HUGE this season) in classic silhouettes. Marc Jacobs turned out an impeccable collection consisting of tailored pantsuits, swing coats, and longer hemlines in a soft, neutral palette, plus a pop of yellow. Ralph Lauren revisited the American West. Derek Lam also hopped aboard that wagon.
Jumping to a few newer (if not more famous) names in design, we were quite impressed by the innovative basics from MK and Ashley Olsen's label The Row, as well as the new draping added to Posh's bodycon dresses by her eponymous line, Victoria Beckham.
Finally, we dedicate this season, which had enough wearable and interesting looks to appease all of us here at "The Thread," to Alexander McQueen, may he rest in peace.